It has about become a cliche to say that this year’s appearance weeks are clashing any before. Over the aftermost six months, two sets of shows — the men’s Spring/Summer 2021 shows meant for June and the women’s SS21 shows which are currently advancing — accept been disrupted by the COVID-19 communicable and the lockdown measures affiliated to it.
As a result, brands accept begin new agency of presenting: videos, lookbooks and alike mini-exhibitions accept appear to the ahead in lieu of a acceptable aerodrome experience. And while some brands accept staged fully-fledged shows (often to an abandoned audience, or one fabricated up of their own staff), it’s adamantine not to admiration whether such contest ability end up as an anachronism in the abreast future.
“We had consistently acted at some point about designing spaces for no guests.”
So what does that beggarly for set design? Some of the best memorable appearance shows — from Galliano’s snow-lit wind adit for Fall/Winter 2009 to the amethyst beach dunes of Prada Spring/Summer 2015 — accept been authentic by their sets as abundant as the clothes on display. But will there still be a charge for such abundant (and expensive) creations in a scaled-down, basic adaptation of fashion’s future?
What has become bright over the aftermost six months is that a acknowledgment to antecedent appearance weeks — with bound schedules, packed-out venues and guests aureate in from about the apple — is absurd to acknowledgment for a continued time, if ever. With the achievability of a abolitionist change for the appearance agenda and the way collections are presented, we bent up with three industry-leading names to see how the apple of appearance anniversary set architectonics is adapting.
How would you adapt for a accustomed appearance week?
Gary Card (Vivienne Westwood, Kenzo, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY): It all depends on the season, sometimes there ability be a brace of abate brands that I’m alive with, or aloof one beyond brand. If I’m alive with a baby cast I’m usually alive with a baby aggregation of my administration and interns, aimlessly architectonics set pieces in my little studio, aggravating to bulk out agency of how to amplitude a tiny annual to lath the huge annual of the cast we’re alive with. If I’m alive on a beyond appearance for a big cast I’ll usually be alive with a big set body company. In both situations I booty on a activity administrator role, administering the capacity and acumen of the set design.
Giulio Margheri, OMA/AMO (Prada): We assignment mostly on architectonics and set design, which agency that the alertness for the appearance anniversary for us is the architectonics of the ambiance area the appearance is activity to booty place. AMO, the annex analysis and architectonics flat of OMA has been accommodating for added than 15 years with Prada on a ample cardinal of altered projects, amid them the architectonics of their appearance shows. The set architectonics is the actual aftereffect of a connected barter amid the two companies. This action commonly takes abode four times per year in Milan designing the set for the Prada shows, and two times in Paris for the Miu Miu ones. Anniversary of the development of the set follows agnate principles, yet it is consistently actual different. It is commonly about 10 or 12 weeks long.
During the aboriginal ages the assignment revolves about award the abstraction for the showspace – we usually barter abounding altered ideas, presented in the anatomy of art and cine references, asperous collages and concrete models. The abstraction appearance is both about defining an atmosphere and its architectural configuration.
Alexandre de Betak, Bureau Betak (Dior, Helmut Lang, Galliano): There is no blueprint as shows are all different. Our job is to advice brands and designers abide as altered as possible. Some accord us a brief, some of them we’ll alpha a year early, some later. In abounding cases, we alpha appropriate afterwards the antecedent appearance for the aforementioned brand. Some are actual complete and accept a affection board, some shoot annual from the collection, some accord us words, some accord us nothing. Some don’t alike accord a brief. It’s an advancing accord area you apperceive the abutting appearance will appear in x bulk of months, and you alpha cerebration as a aggregation and assignment with the designer. There’s a lot of altered agency to admission it.
How has your convenance afflicted aback the pandemic?
Card: In all bluntness there hasn’t been any offers to do shows this season, so I can’t say.
Margheri: The abridgement of concrete acquaintance is the best actual of the impacts: alive from home, teams are disconnected, assurance on Internet speed, no traveling allowed, abandoning of concrete events… This is not alone beneath able but additionally beneath activating which is a accordant allotment of our work. However, there is now a accepted compassionate that this bearings will still aftermost for a continued time, which armament us to amend our affairs and projects aural this “new normal.” In June, afterwards a few months of lockdown, aback some requests for new acting projects came in – accumbent with the alleviation of the aegis measures — which in a way proves the alertness of the industry to accumulate affective forward.
De Betak: It afflicted everything. We’ve started alive on a appearance absolutely backward because in bounce we didn’t apperceive what was activity to happen, no one was in a affection for planning, aback we started seeing the end of lockdown and started accepting hope, we batten with a lot of designers and brands and we started attractive at digital-only solutions.
We formed beneath bonds and did a lot of analysis for what we could accompany into projects and advice accomplish things attainable in this new world. However, alike admitting we researched all those new technologies and agency of accomplishing things, bigger agenda amplification, we additionally came to apprehend that we begin it added able and absorbing to still accept an event. I appear from the apple of creating affections and memories and alive experiences, and of advance I’ve been alive for years on greater agenda amplification, but this still bare alive adventures rather than carefully films.
Have you taken on altered kinds of assignment due to the situation?
Card: Yes, the accepted bearings has accustomed me to administer on my own artwork, I accept two shows I’m currently alive on, a carve appearance actuality in London and a alternation of paintings for an exhibition in China. This is the aboriginal time in my developed activity that I’ve been able to administer on my own assignment absolutely uninterrupted, it’s been a liberating experience.
Margheri: The assignment mutates. I wouldn’t say we are demography new kinds of assignment because of the situation, but rather that some projects that we were alive on afflicted and took altered forms because of the accepted communicable and the new restrictions in place. It is assured now to booty into annual the accepted altitude aback designing events. At the aforementioned time we consistently try to accept a proactive admission appear the situation, because the constraints as a apparatus to architectonics rather than a limitation.
De Betak: We started a sub-company a few years ago alleged Bureau Future, which was years afore the pandemic. It’s a agenda agreeable conception aggregation which we created to bigger amplify concrete shows because they became all-around a continued time ago, which we’d beck alive on agenda media. We believed we had to do it bigger and added calmly than aloof filming. Luckily, we’ve been alive for years on aggravating to accomplish added out of what we already did, the appearance itself.
These accomplished months some capacity that are mostly or carefully concrete became mostly digital. There’s a about-face of balance, but we still abode the things we accept done digitally with absorption to concrete detail in the ability of real, concrete experiences, alike if it’s activity to be transmitted digitally.
“It’s asinine to anticipate that a appearance appearance is a futile, abandoned thing.”
Have you been allowance brands or designers present collections in new ways?
Margheri: We accept been alive on designing sets that for the aboriginal time had altered paradigms, spaces area the abridgement of guests meant we absent the restrictions dictated by their presence, and the needs and rules attached. Instead, the sets accept become places area the assignment will mainly be broadcasted. A appearance appearance presented through a alive alive is annihilation new, but that was consistently in accession to a bound cardinal of bodies physically accessory the show. In the architectonics action the attendance of such a baby accumulation has a actual big appulse on the end aftereffect of the set.
We had consistently acted at some point about designing spaces for no guests in adjustment not to accommodation the architectonics to lath functionality, and to some admeasurement this division affected us in that direction.
De Betak: We are still experimenting and we will be for a actual continued time, we are at the alpha of a new era area every appearance from now will consistently be a hybrid. From now, and alike afterwards the vaccine, I am assertive that we won’t go aback to the aforementioned situations. We’re never activity to appearance to all of the media of the world, every time, every appearance show. I anticipate that the arrangement of seasons is over, and it should be over — for acceptable reasons, economical reasons, and absorption affidavit it should be over. Bodies are accepting apathetic by them, and I can’t accusation them because there are too abounding of them.
So in a way, the new apple is activity to advice the audiences achieve interest. No one will anytime see everything, everywhere, anytime again. For that acumen aggregate will be a hybrid, because aggregate will alone be apparent actual fast, digitally, there will be alone a baby concrete audience.
Have you formed on any basic appearance anniversary presentations? What was that like?
Card: Absolutely not yet. Sadly the abstraction of alive around does in lots of cases abolish the set artist from the process, as the sky’s the complete as to what you can aftermath virtually, the acumen of creating a set that fits and works in a area don’t apply, acumen for a appearance appearance are 80 percent of the job. Hopefully brands will see the bulk of set designers as annual bodies that can advice them apprehend their visions virtually.
Margheri: Not really, we formed on concrete sets that didn’t accept guests.
De Betak: I accept in around transmitting a concrete emotion. The aboriginal appearance we did afterwards lockdown was the Jacquemus appearance in the aureate fields abutting to Paris in aboriginal July. It was a complete appearance with a baby audience. It was a alive acquaintance but it went out digitally. Again we did the Dior in Lecce, which was the aboriginal actual ample show, a big production, with absolutely no audience. It was a actual important agreement in actuality because one would admiration why you’d put on such a big appearance and no one will see it live. The accuracy is: the acknowledgment speaks for itself. They affianced added by attractive at article that absolutely happened than by the way of ahead attractive at a show.
I’ve spent my activity alive on shows, and I achievement and accept I’ve helped reinvent them and accommodate them. Calm with my team, we try to reinvent it with all altered designers that we’ve formed with for a absolutely continued time. John Galliano for 16 years, or Viktor & Rolf, Raf Simons, Dior, Saint Laurent. Those brands and designers are examples of actual specific types of appearance shows, actual specific beheld identities. Now, we’re in a time area we accept to reinvent for anniversary one of them.
Are you cerebration about shows abnormally post-COVID? Do you anticipate there is still a charge for them?
Card: This is a catechism I’ve been allurement myself for some time, the fate of the appearance appearance has been in catechism continued afore COVID, there is a huge bulk of decay that’s created with a appearance and I anticipate we’ve all collectively become a lot added careful about that. So I anticipate addition out new agency to present collections, basic or otherwise, is absolutely a complete thing. Accepting said that, you aloof can’t exhausted the amphitheater of a acceptable appearance show, aback aggregate clicks calm as planned they can be animating experiences, and I’ll absence that feeling. Do we charge them? Maybe not, but I assumption that’s like adage do we charge amphitheater aback we accept TV.
Margheri: Attractive at the accepted situation, what we could alarm “post-COVID condition” is not actuality yet, and it is adamantine to adumbrate aback and how it will manifest. We will see how the bearings evolves, and what will be attainable and accordant to do in the advancing months or seasons. There is the will and the call to get aback to aggregate events, I could brainstorm us active in austere regimes of bloom screening, with bodies consistently actuality tested. During the latest appearance anniversary in Milan, some clinics were abounding with adolescent models and bodies from the appearance industry.
Each of the abstracts complex in the acreage had to go through the assured affidavit of negativity to admission their accustomed routine, a accepted that entails an ambiance aggregate with abounding bodies at the aforementioned time. And this is apparently a administration that will access and advance with added attainable bloom checks affiliated to abounding of the activities that crave bodies to gather. These accomplished months and the abounding altered strategies that accept been adopted by the industry to present their collections in this aberrant bearings prove that shows and the presentation of the collections is still accordant and necessary.
De Betak: There is a charge for brands and designers to put them on. The beyond catechism is: is there a charge for shows for the apple to go round? No, there never was. However, appearance shows became such largely-seen mediums that, from my allotment and I am actual advantageous to assignment with who I assignment with, they advice accommodate for artistic partnerships and artistic reasons. We actualize moments and contest and affections that are apparent actual largely, they accept a actual important actual cultural aftereffect on people.
What is the role of set designers in this new agenda format?
Card: Hopefully it will be allowance those aforementioned brands beef out those basic concepts, so abundant of what we accomplish is on cad and account up, so we’re about designing in basic spaces anyway, we accept a actual acceptable butt on how a amplitude should feel and how to actualize an immersive experience, so it should be a actual bright transition.
Margheri: We accept been alive on designing the complete environments for a appearance to move in, a congenital analogue to the appearance collection. In that faculty behindhand of the anatomy that the amplitude will have, there will consistently be a charge to architectonics an atmosphere. As designers we will apparently charge altered or added sets of abilities or collaborators, professionals able to construe annual to adequate agenda spaces, video games, apps… But I still accede designing a amplitude a accordant added value.
De Betak: I’m not absolutely a set designer. My ambition is to advice actualize the accent for these brands, actualize concepts from the set to the lights, the music, the choreography, the casting, the hair, makeup, the appropriate effects, you name it. It’s a accomplished thing. Me and my team, we acknowledgment the designer’s needs with a abounding concept. Aback we alpha a accord with a new client, our role is to architectonics a language, to architectonics the rules and the accent that we chase to actualize an character together. I anticipate that this new charge should reshuffle the cards and accessible the aperture for every artist and cast to appear up with new annual and agency of accomplishing what they do. I anticipate anniversary one of them could, or should, be added altered than they were before.
I am assertive that there will still be a appearance show. Maybe not in a appearance week, but at some point aback it comes to appearance in an efficient, timely, agreeable and still appearance way, you’ll appetite to do it. I anticipate that the appearance appearance architecture is article that you don’t charge to do all the time. But at some point you’ll appetite to see a appearance appearance from a appearance designer. I don’t anticipate that’s activity to die, the agenda abstracts that were done in bounce and summer were amazing, some of them, but I don’t anticipate any of them are able abundant that you can alone do agenda and never do article alive anytime again.
What accept been the capital challenges about operating in the “new normal”?
Card: I’ve got to be honest, amusing break aback architectonics sets so far has sometimes been challenging. It’s adamantine to accumulate your ambit aback so abundant of architectonics article is about alive carefully with a team, but we’ve been alive it out. I acquisition that cutting a affectation all day, although essential, is appealing annoying, I’m consistently adjusting it, sometimes my animation channels up the mask, fogging up my glasses.
Margheri: Abounding of the processes that were able-bodied accustomed and up to speed, aback bare to be re-thought, after the time to redefine them, aloof by accomplishing them. This agency some of the after-effects were a acceptable acquirements acquaintance and could potentially be adopted additionally in a post-covid time. As the communicable bearings has been consistently evolving in the accomplished months, we started alive on sets with acceptable accordance and complete trends, while catastrophe the architectonics in a moment with the college amount of cases in Europe and some areas affective aback to abounding lockdown conditions. In agreement of architectonics this agency that the abrupt itself consistently mutates according to the situation.
Moreover, travelling and affair has been way added complicated in these aftermost months, and alike if we approved to abate it as abundant as possible, it is still actual important to see the materials, get a faculty of the accommodation and feel the atmosphere while testing the mock-ups. With all the problems and struggles this bearings is generating, it is actual absorbing to see how in abounding altered fields we are affected to agreement and acquisition new solutions. The appearance industry was affected to reimagine pre-established dynamics such as the appearance shows, and it is absorbing to agenda how anniversary cast has interpreted the moment, cerebration of new formats and agency of presenting their creations, aggravating to be accordant and contemporary.
De Betak: There are challenges of quantity, symmetry, measures, things like that. But it’s additionally a moral challenge, which for me appropriate now is the better one. We are accomplishing a concrete appearance with an abundantly bargain alive audience, and a lot of bodies are advancing it, adage it’s absolutely immoral, irresponsible, that bodies can’t be socially distanced. It’s no altered than bodies sitting in a restaurant abutting to anniversary added or communicable a alternation or subway.
Operational challenges are aloof applied and a affliction in the ass. Moral ones are added challenging. It’s the bigger question: should the apple stop turning? I acerb accept the apple will change, like anybody abroad says, it does. But I additionally accept that you can’t change the absolute apple from one day to the next. Yes, the apple of appearance needs rethinking, and we’re alive actual adamantine on sustainability programs, but I additionally accept that if you stop everything, an absolute industry, again tens of bags of bodies with families won’t accept an income. It’s a actual asinine affair to anticipate that a appearance appearance is a futile, abandoned thing. Afore annihilation else, it has the purpose of communicating brands that create, that all calm are allotment of an industry that provides for bodies in the world.
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