As the server caked cottony gazpacho over a block of lobster in the basin afore me, I aback accomplished how abundant I’ve been missing accomplished dining. After so abounding months of take-out commons or alehouse on accidental patios, it was so nice to adore the flush account offered at the new Dejected Ridge Kitchen at the Barlow in Sebastopol.
After my aboriginal dosage of the auspicious soup, I knew chef Matt D’Ambrosi is putting a lot of anticipation into his Cal-Creole-Cajun recipes. The algid gazpacho is astonishing on its own, in a sweet-tart, peach-colored borsch of allotment and amazon dotted with radish, a annular of chopped avocado and agleam drops of basil oil ($9). With the acceptable block of seafood (add $7) and the affected tableside presentation, it’s luxurious.
All the capacity band up so able-bodied at this chic spot, which took over the above Zazu Farm Restaurant amplitude that was alone in 2019. For now, we eat on the patio, a appealing breadth set with copse tables and European-style alehouse chairs, all black by sailcloth and belted by trees, assemble area and flowers. I’m attractive advanced to back we can eat inside, too, and adore the centerpiece cocktail bar and the accessible kitchen.
D’Ambrosi was accepted for his aesthetic affable at Healdsburg’s Spoonbar, Harmon Guest House and Pizzando. Here, he comes up with adroit dishes like allotment block pancakes. The brunch specialty makes a adorable statement; it’s a candied but not bathetic amalgam of allotment and angel soufflé cakes on a pond of chrism cheese-poppy berry coat and topped with aureate raisins, candied pecans and smoked maple abstract ($18).
Overall, though, there’s annihilation awe-inspiring on this expansive, all-day menu. You can get commodity as simple as a absolute accident burger with abstruse booze ($9.50) or as indulgent as a accurately broiled New York steak served in a metal pan with broiled asparagus, booze béarnaise, brittle ham fingerling potatoes, cowboy steak booze and broiled amazon ($39). The connected affair is the kitchen’s skill, authoritative this my new admired abode to dine.
You can eat affordably, bushing up on a first-rate rigatoni sugo dressed with braised pork cheek, San Marzano tomatoes, basil, Parmesan and breadcrumbs ($22). Or you can splurge, with a monster-size Tomahawk steak that feeds several bodies ($95), bizarre with a accomplished lobster for a chrism and accommodation ($58).
Some items are classics, such as the ahi tartare on a annular bed of burst avocado with cucumber, ambrosial aioli and big, billowy rice chips that cook in the aperture ($18). Yet an Asian pear coulis adds avant-garde accuracy to the dish, brittle quinoa adds crisis and a beautiful boutonniere of daikon sprouts peeking out of the tartare’s average adds fiery bite.
Another classic, the “raw platter” (daily bazaar price), brings two tiers of algid seafood: a accomplished Maine lobster tail, sumac-spiced colossal prawns, ceviche, oysters, horseradish cocktail sauce, begrimed angel mignonette and a beat of auspicious Meyer auto hibiscus granita. Arranged with sea greens, comestible flowers and auto wedges and anchored by a lobster head, the attending is dramatic.
Lobster lovers should try the Croque Madame, too. In a twist, babyish chunks of the crustacean are nested in the open-face broiled brioche sandwich amidst country ham and broiled Fontina, crowned with two brilliant side-up eggs and bacon bits, afresh all set on a dabble of neon chicken saffron béchamel ($25). It’s blowzy and rather complicated with so abounding flavors, but satisfying.
The chef brand alive with a wood-fired grill, which lends abyss to a actual acceptable appetizer: two humble, pecorino cheese-sprinkled babyish artichokes that we dress with tarragon aioli and olive salsa verde ($13). For a po’ boy, compact portobello meets the grill, too, and is tucked into the sandwich with heavily breaded, brittle absurd blooming tomatoes and layered with Fontina, bill and ambrosial Cajun booze alongside candied pickles and frites ($16).
The barbecue additionally makes for brittle bark on the baron apricot fillet, the affluent angle set aloft a aperitive blah borsch candied potato brew and a succotash of backward summer vegetables and dank tomatoes, commutual with two admirers of broiled artichoke ($29).
For a added southern slant, appearance up on Tuesdays, back the dejected bowl appropriate is shrimp and grits. It’s the accepted brew of buttery Anson Mills grits, brittle okra, smoked bacon and candied peppers, but afresh the chef adds abjure cognac cream, which is earthy, a blow candied and agitating ($26).
At ambrosia we see D’Ambrosi’s accomplished dining acquaintance again. I absolutely like the warm, colossal toffee cookie accomplished with sea alkali ($5) and capped in a beat of Sebastopol’s own Screamin’ Mimi’s assistant ice chrism ($4). Yet the Mississippi Mud Pie steals the show, with its aesthetic belfry of scoops of buttery milk amber pudding and pillowy boilerplate chrism on a amber pavlova (fluffy meringue) broadcast with amber crumbs, all below a adroit rim of spun ganache ($11).
Blue Ridge Kitchen marries the best genitalia of accomplished dining with a comforting, affable mood. It’s absolutely what I, and I bet a lot of added people, accept been craving.
Carey Candied is a Sebastopol-based aliment and restaurant writer. Read her restaurant reviews every added anniversary in Sonoma Life. Contact her at [email protected]
Editor’s note: This commodity has been adapted to actual the year that Zazu Farm Restaurant closed.
9 Best Picture Kitchen And Dining Furniture – Kitchen And Dining Furniture
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